I'll be posting here until I either pay for another year of Radio Userland hosting or figure out how to upstream to somewhere else
Saturday, April 29, 2006
I left Taberka on Monday and headed south, into the green hills that I'd been looking up at for the last few days. At Jendouba I got the usual sandwich for lunch (tuna, olives, hot sauce/paste, deep fried egg) and hired a taxi to take me to the Bulla Regia ruins. I told the driver to pick me up in an hour, because that's about what my appetite for ruins runs at. The Bulla Regia ruins are interesting because it an underground version of the classical Roman city. It's just cooler down there I guess. To the left you can see a photo of me chilling in the House of Amphitrite. The floor I'm standing on has the best mosiac of the whole site.
I flipped through the LP in search of where to go next. I decided to take another louage further south to Le Kef, a small city on a hill, and take in some views. Unfortunately, the weather was hot and hazy when I got there, but I started walking up to the Kasbah from the louage station anyway. You could really tell this city was pretty backwater because kids would should out "Give me 1 dinar/pen/candy!" This never happened in Taberka, Jerba or Tunis where people on the street either ignored you or wanted to have a real conversation.
Up in the heights of the city, you could look down at the surrounding country but the visibility wasn't great because of the haze. I think I found the city's last remaining door through the walls, called Bab Ghedive. Stepping through it, you leave Le Kef and the scene dramatically changes to the countryside. Outside the city walls there were some cool cliffs and a really old cemetery. I warded off some angry dogs here with rocks. Picking up a few rocks for dog defense before entering a town is a trick I learned in Morocco. I didn't see much else to do in Le Kef, so I stepped back into town and took the cheapest small-town taxi ever back down to the station, and waited for a louage back to Tunis.
That night I had another good dinner experience on Rue de Marseille. The first night it was Chez Nous, but this night I chose Al Mazar. With wine, my typical dinner of salad, bread with hot red paste, olives, and a tomato and meat stew was about $10. I stayed that night in the Auberge de Jeunesse in the medina. Now there was only one more day left until home!
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